We drove out of Dubrovnik and before we realised it we were in Bosnia. It wasn’t the best entry, two unhappy border control guards, an unhappy barista in a cafe where they were smoking inside (we didn’t stay) and an emaciated dog. On the plus side, where the poor break-my-heart dog was, we got two very strong but actually nice cappuccinos for 2 euro. At the first checkpoint we showed our car documents AND our passports which were duly stamped, then 100 metres up the road we showed our passports again 😮‍💨

Drove through the mountains. Roads are crap. Hard to believe we are on the M20. Average speed 48km per hour. Temperature down to 14.  Post the first lot of mountains the landscape was barren and rocky. Not pleasant. Over the rest of the mountains, there were a number of temporary residents passing on corners. Quite a few roadside memorials, which didn’t seem to detract from stupid driving. Rubbish including old cars littered the sides of the road. Abandoned homes. Everything looked in disrepair. 

Destination Sarajevo.

The name Sarajevo derives from the Turkish noun saray, meaning “palace” or “mansion. It seems no one is certain of why the evo is on the end. It probably doesn’t really matter. 

In 1885, Sarajevo was the first city in Europe and the second city in the world to have a full-time electric tram network running through the city. San Francisco being the first. And of course in 1914, Sarajevo was the site of the assassination of Heir Presumptive to the Austria-Hungary Throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which effectively  sparked the First World War. The history is sad and complicated. Given their recent history (as recently as the 90’s) I guess it’s no wonder they don’t seem happy. 

Finally got into Sarajevo around 4pm after 6 solid hours of driving. As we entered the city we stopped to get petrol. There were three guys sitting out the front about to head off on their motorbikes. One guy had a Jimmy’s Pies t-shirt on. MoD claimed it was Jimmy’s Pies from South Island NZ. Rubbish MoD.  Turns out he was right, as usual, and they were from Auckland. Small world.

Took us another 30 minutes to get to the centre of town, it was raining, the traffic chaotic and very hard to move around the city. We had no internet so found a little cafe for a hamburger (our first meal of the day) and free internet to find our hotel.  A further 30 minutes of driving, even though it was only about 1.5km from where we parked, and we found our hotel.

Which is where Sarajevo redeemed herself. 

Very faaancy….in fact probably the fanciest hotel I have ever stayed at. Except The Langham in Melbourne. Pretty hard to beat that.

Once we checked in, Sarajevo further redeemed herself when we headed out for a walk to see the Eternal Flame (WWII monument) and get our bearings. Although there are a lot of cats (which make me sad they don’t have a home) and a lot of banks.

It’s a cool place.

Then it was back to the luxury of our hotel for a picnic and to watch a touch of CNN before turning it over to the real deal – the Crime Channel.

Bliss.

And what do you think is one of the first shows that turns up? Brokenwood Mysteries – a very good NZ murder show (now I don’t usually say ‘very good’ and NZ TV in the same sentence)….with subtitles in case we want to read it in Bosnian.