Zadar

The oldest continuously habituated city in Croatia, located along the Dalmatian Coast.

The earliest evidence of human life comes from the late Stone Age times whilst numerous settlements date back to Neolithic.

Population about 75,000. 

MoD had booked us an apartment right in old town, which proved quite tricky to find, prompting him to wonder what on earth he had gotten us into. Can’t possibly compete with my booking in San Fran MoD, whereby I am since not allowed to book accommodation without heavy vetting. 

Turns out, it’s extremely comfortable. 

And right beside the water. Methinks there may be some rich boat owners in these parts.

We headed out for a wander down to hear the Sea Organ – a mix of sea waves and tubes located right on the sea underneath a set of large marble steps. Quite mesmerising and meditative. 

We could have stayed for hours but wanted to grab a bite and be back just as the sun went down so we could see the full effect of Greeting to the Sun (commonly called the Monument to the Sun).

On of our hosts’ recommended restaurants was just around the corner – Kornat. Highly recommended. 

Complimentary tuna paste with far too much bread, rolled Sea Bass and roasted vegetables.

Bonus fancy (shared) toilets.

I made MoD go back and take photos. Cause wives can do that. 

Then back to the Greeting to the Sun, very popular, and quite interesting. Dedicated to the Sun, it is a 22 metre diameter circle representing the sun with 300 multi layered plates placed on the same level as the pavement. Photovoltaic solar panels are underneath which capture the sun during the day and project a light show come night.  Apparently it provides 40% of the cities power. The monument symbolises a connection to nature and the light while the Sea Organ symbolises connection to sound.  Croatian architect Nikola Bašić created both. Pretty damn fine legacy to leave the city I think.  I believe he is still alive. 

We are here for two nights, so at ten o’clock the next morning we had booked into a historical walking tour of the city.

On our way, we walked through the Landward Gate from the Venetian Works of Defence 15th century. The Lion of Saint Mark, seen above the arch, is a winged lion which is the symbol of the Republic of Venice.  If the book is closed that indicates war times. When the lions paws rest on the ground this indicates Venetian ruling over sea and land. The lion’s tail up indicates the Venetians had conquered new territory. 

While we waited for our tour we chatted to a local and his dog ‘Shelia’ the 3rd. His third dog of exactly the same name and breed. Shelia spends her mornings wandering around in the square, shimmying up to people for a pat. We obliged. Our local ‘local’ talked about how the euro exchange last year from Kuna had made everything really expensive but wages remain the same. It’s a common theme from people we chat with. Oue Umag driver had told us the Croatian average monthly wage is €1,000 compared to Italy at €2,000. 

First tour stop, we walked through a coffee shop into a little Roman ruin – their back ‘store’ room. They didn’t store their Coco Cola there. Or anything thankfully.

We counted about 19 churches in Zadar, all Catholic except one lonely Orthodox.

The church in the below photos has a crypt from 1381.  I thought I was being extremely respectful taking off my hat and keeping my mouth shut. Turns out my bare shoulders are not allowed. I found that out post my visit. Don’t worry readers, I wasn’t thrown out, MoD pointed out the sign as we exited. Our group had hidden it behind their girth.

The below image is of two churches, you walk into Saint Andrew to get to Saint Peter’s. 12th century I think.  Currently a working gallery shop. 

This is the lonely singular Orthodox Church. Interesting way the congregation worships from the sides.

There are ruins everywhere, including underground, where we could stand on the glass and look down.

What shocked us a little was the fact there here are these ancient ruins and people just sit on them. 

Mind you, we sat on this ruin (currently a Lego exhibition) talking to Sheila the 3rd this morning.

The pavement in the main square is over 2 thousand years old.

Pretty amazing all around. 

We wandered past the sacrificial site, where the blood channel remains. 

After the tour finished, we keep wandering and found somewhere to relax from the 27 degree heat with a refreshing sparkling water and damn fine music. The playlists here have been pretty cool, obviously mostly English but good Spotify Cafe Music 😜

Wandered a bit further, and wondered how on earth I would manage to reach up and put my washing on these lines – not designed for short peeps 😉

And kept wandering…..

Decided to have an in house meal tonight so headed to the market where they weigh the food on balance beam scales and calculate the cost in their head! Can you imagine that?

Thought we might buy our son and grandson matching swimmers for the upcoming Florida trip.

Turns out they were €460 for the set. Well that didn’t happen then did it!!!

My previous unhealthy self was excited by the lolly shop but my new improved version managed to avoid temptation. Sugar pig heaven.

After a siesta we headed over to what the locals call Green Island, although its actual name is Vladimir Nazor Park. It’s really an oasis in the city, set on a high walled fortress, surrounded by the city, canals and the sea. People do a lot of running there. The view from above was quite cool.

Then it was onto our sunset cruise. Ten of us in the boat, four from England, four sitting up the front we didn’t get a chance to talk to, and the pièce de résistance…….Mr. & Mrs. Instagram. Who failed to follow orders, didn’t hold onto their drinks and promptly spilt them on our fellow Englishmen at the first wave. Further, Mrs Instagram was under the impression the boat tour was private and was angry with Mr. Instagram, refusing to have a photo with him. Then talking loudly whilst Captain Tony was giving us the benefit of his local knowledge. There is always one isn’t there.

But we had fun. Tony, was fun, as were our new besties, the four from England.

‘Twas a fabulous day.

Without a shadow of a doubt, we are living our best lives right now.

And for that, I am incredibly grateful.

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